Take the planning and worry out of climbing Slesse!
Let our professional ACMG Guides at VMG plan and lead your climb. The NE Buttress of Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers ability (5.9). The logistics of such a big route are daunting.
You will take 2.5 days to ascend and descend the route. VMG guides have climbed Slesse and understand the interconnectedness of variables presenting risk and how to mitigate those risks in order to guide it efficiently, and safely. Adding to the thrill of climbing Slesse is the experience of an open bivi on route!
Once on the summit you are only half way through the climb and your guide will then skillfully and safely navigate you down the mountain. Our Guides will plan an incredible trip that you will not forget!
Meet at Tractorgrease Cafe on the Chilliwack Lake Road at 5pm. Drive to parking lot. Hiking by 7pm to bivi site - most likely propeller cairn but bivi options exist.
Alpine start. Hiking by 5am. Cross slabs to bypass ledges. Climbing by 7am.
Arrive at bivi site on route by 5pm. Make dinner, rest, hydrate, and take photos. Bivi options exist depending on conditions and participant(s).
Alpine start. Climbing by 6am. Summit Mt. Slesse and descend the west side via rappels and Crossover Pass route. Back at car by 6pm.
Ratio 1:1 $1800
Ratio 1:2 $1000 each
July - September
** Need to wait until the pocket glacier has slid.
Friday Afternoon, Saturday, and Sunday (for example)
Mid-week Monday - Friday
Good physical conditioning. The most important element for a successful Slesse climb is physical ability. Participants need to be comfortable seconding 5.9 for long hours with a 20 pound pack. Suggested pre-requisite routes are: Squamish Buttress 5.9, Angels Crest 5.10b, Ultimate Everything 5.10b, Yak Chek 5.9.
Note: gear needs to be ultralight!
- rock climbing shoes (very comfortable)
- helmet (climbing)
- chalk bag
- belay device (ATC type)
- 2 locking carabiners
- double length sling (120cm)
- clothing (synthetic)
- approach shoes (sticky rubber)
- personnel items (ie. bandaids, sunscreen, sun glasses)
- headlamp (extra batteries)
- 30L pack
- bivi gear
Fun and Safety First. Plan Your Slesse Vacation With VMG Guides Now!
Mt. Slesse NE Buttress 5.9 is the pinnacle for many rock climbers. Vancouver Mountain Guides can help you achieve your goal this summer!