Climb Mt. Slesse!

The North East Buttress of Mt. Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers ability (5.9). The logistics of such a big route are daunting. Vancouver Mountain Guides will take care of all the details.

You will take 2 days to ascend and descend the route. VMG guides have climbed Mt. Slesse many times and understand the interconnectedness of variables presenting risk and how to mitigate those risks in order to guide it efficiently, and safely. Adding to the thrill of climbing Mt. Slesse is the experience of an open bivi on route!

Once on the summit you are only half way through the climb and your guide will then skillfully and safely navigate you down the mountain. Our Guides will plan an incredible trip that you will not forget!

 

Plush bivi spot on route approximately 2/3 way.

Itinerary:

Saturday:
Meet at Tractorgrease Cafe on the Chilliwack Lake Road at 5am. Your guide will complete a gear check, and have you sign a waiver. Drive 4x4 to the trailhead. Hiking by 6:30am. 

Cross slabs arriving at bypass ledges by 10am. Climbing by 11am.
Arrive at bivi site on route by 4pm. Make dinner, rest, hydrate, and take photos. 

Sunday:
Alpine start. Climbing by 6am. Summit Mt. Slesse by 12noon and descend the west via 2 short rappels. Follow Crossover Pass descent arriving back at car by 6pm. 

 

Questions? phone 778-874-7386 or

 
 

Fee:

Ratio 1:1 $1499

Ratio 1:2 $899 each

Includes: guide, 4wd to trailhead, group equipment
 

 

Dates:

After the pocket glacier slides. Summer months. 

August - September (pick 2 days)

Contact Us if you need different dates!

 

Pre-requisite:

Good physical conditioning. The most important element for a successful Slesse climb is physical ability. Participants need to be comfortable seconding 5.9 for long hours with a 20 pound pack. Suggested pre-requisite routes are: Squamish Buttress 5.9, Angels Crest 5.10b, Ultimate Everything 5.10b, Yak Chek 5.9.

 

Equipment:

Note: gear needs to be ultralight!

  • rock climbing shoes (comfortable)
  • harness
  • helmet (climbing)
  • chalk bag
  • belay device (ATC type)
  • 2 x locking carabiners
  • 1 x double length sling (120cm)
  • clothing (synthetic), thin toque & gloves
  • down sweater
  • rain gear (left in the car)
  • approach shoes (sticky rubber)
  • Khatoola Micro Spikes
  • personnel items (ie. bandaids, sunscreen, sun glasses, toothbrush, cup, dixie spoon)
  • headlamp (fresh batteries)
  • 2 x 1L Platypus bottles
  • 30L pack
  • bivi gear (bivy foam, 1lb sleeping bag)

Note: VMG will supply any equipment you do not have (except rock shoes).

 

   

 
 

Gallery


Fun and Safety First. Plan Your Slesse Vacation With VMG Guides Now!

Mt. Slesse NE Buttress 5.9 is the pinnacle for many rock climbers. Vancouver Mountain Guides can help you achieve your goal this summer!