Climb Mt. Slesse!

The North East Buttress of Mt. Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers at 5.9, the size of this route makes it a proud achievement. The logistics of such a big route are daunting but leave it to Vancouver Mountain Guides - you are in great hands.

We offer trips from 1-day to 2.5 days with the standard being our 2-day trip. All 2-day trips include an exciting bivi on the pitch 14 ledge known as “Sheraton Slesse”. Views from the summit are spectacular in all directions! From the summit your guide will skillfully and safely navigate you down the long and complex descent.

VMG is your first choice for Mt. Slesse. We have the most guided ascents and our expert knowledge is highly sought after by other guiding professionals. Our guides are pioneers in the area with the first ascent of nearby Crack Of Noon Club 5.6 - now part of the standard rappel descent.

Itinerary:

Note: we have 1-day, 2-day and 2.5-day options. With excellent fitness you can choose the 1-day option (email us to discuss). With good fitness our 2-day option is the standard however, we can also add an extra night for those wanting a little more time (add $199 for 2.5-day option).

Day 1:
Meet at Starbucks Coffee on Vedder Road at 5am. After introductions and a quick gear check you will drive to the trail-head. Hiking by 6:30am. 

Cross slabs arriving at bypass ledges by 10am. Climbing by 11am.
Arrive at pitch 14 Sheraton Slesse bivi by 6pm. Eat food, rest, hydrate, and take photos. 

Day 2:
Alpine start, climbing by 6am. Summit Mt. Slesse around 12noon and descend the west face ledges via down-climbing and rappels. Hike back to car by 10pm.

Optional Day 2.5:
Finish the final rappels on descent then make our way over to the bivi site at treeline around 7pm. Start Hiking by 6am and back to the car for 9am.

Waiver

You are required to read the VMG Waiver and agree to it’s terms and conditions prior to paying or signing. Your guide needs to see the emailed waiver verification before participating.

Questions?

Fee:

Ratio 1:1 $1799

Ratio 1:2 $1199 each

Add $199 each for 2.5-day option (at checkout)

Includes: guide, 4wd to trailhead, group equipment
 

Dates:

July - September. Pick the first day of your dates.

Note: flexibility around dates (couple days on each side) in order to take advantage of weather windows is desirable for a successful summit bid.

Pre-requisite:

Good physical conditioning. The most important element for a successful Slesse climb is physical ability. Participants need to be comfortable seconding 5.9 for long hours with a 20 pound pack. Suggested pre-requisite routes are: Squamish Buttress 5.9, Angels Crest 5.10b, Ultimate Everything 5.10b, Yak Chek 5.9.

Equipment:

Note: gear needs to be ultralight!

• rock climbing shoes (comfortable)

• harness

• helmet (climbing)

• chalk bag

• belay device (ATC type)

• 2 x locking carabiners

• 1 x double length sling (120cm)

• 1 x 19” Sterling hollow block

• clothing (synthetic), thin toque & gloves

• down sweater

• rain gear (left in the car)

• approach shoes (sticky rubber)

• Khatoola Micro Spikes

• personnel items (ie. bandaids, sunscreen, sun glasses, toothbrush, cup, dixie spoon)

• Wag Bag

• headlamp (fresh batteries)

• 2 x 1L Platypus bottles

• 30L pack

• bivi gear (bivy foam, 1lb sleeping bag, bivi sac)

Note: VMG will supply any equipment you do not have (except rock shoes).