Canada's Best Alpine Rock Climbing!

 

The Bugaboos are, without a doubt, some of the best alpine rock climbing in North America. This will be the trip of a lifetime! The majestic scenery, alone, will create lasting memories and a burning desire to return. 

This is a 5 day advanced climbing trip focussing on premium, long crack lines on the big faces of the Bugaboos spires. Your guide, Joshua Lavigne, is a veteran and expert Bugaboos climber. He has repeated ascents and climbed first ascents of many of the longest and hardest routes in the "Bugs". On this trip he will guide you, in essentially his "backyard", on some of the best "expert classics". Joshua is an Internationally Certified Mountain Guide (ACMG/IFMGA) with years of guiding experience and exquisite, first hand, knowledge of the Bugaboos.

For this trip, you have the pleasure of staying in the comfortable and historic Conrad Kain Hut. The "Kain Hut" has all amenities, including running water, sleeping mattresses, and electricity. The location is spectacular with Snowpatch, Bugaboo, Eastpost, and Hounds Tooth Spires as your back drop. The trail accessing the hut is 5km long and ascends 700m to treeline. Views along the way are outstanding. 

 

Conrad Kain hut sits at treeline beneath the magical spires of the bugaboos.

Itinerary:

Meet your guide at the Brisco General Store along Hwy 95 the first day. Introductions will be followed by reading and signing the waiver then driving to the Bugaboos Provincial Park parking area. Takes approximately 60 minutes (50km gravel road) from the store to the parking area.

Day 1: Hike to Kain Hut
Day 2: Climb multi-pitch above Crescent Glacier
(McTech Arete 5.10a, Paddle Flake 5.10b)
Day 3: Climb multi-pitch on south face Pigeon Spire
(Cooper-Kor 5.10b)
Day 4: Climb multi-pitch on Snowpatch Spire
(Furry Pink Arete 5.10b, Sunshine Cracks 5.11a, Surfs Up 5.9)
Day 5: Hike back to car

Expect early mornings and long days in the mountains. It is amazing! The reward for long days climbing is coming back to the comfortable Kain Hut for a good nights sleep.

Contact VMG for custom itineraries, routes, or peaks you desire

 

Questions?

 
 

Fee:

(5 day trip)

Ratio 1:1 $2999

Ratio 1:2 $1799 each

Includes: guiding fees, park permits, hut fees, group climbing equipment.

 

 

Dates:

July 1 - 5th FINISHED

July 5 - 9th FINISHED

August 7 - 13th IN PROGRESS

Contact VMG for custom dates July - September.

 

Pre-requisites:

Excellent stamina and fitness. Hiking with a backpack carrying your climbing and camping gear uphill. Participants need to be comfortable seconding 5.9 - 5.10 with a pack. Suggested pre-requisite routes to get prepared are: Squamish Buttress 5.9, Angels Crest 5.10b, Ultimate Everything 5.10b. Contact VMG if you have any questions!


Equipment:

A detailed list will be provided in the registration package emailed to you.
 

  • Rock climbing shoes (very comfortable)
  • Harness
  • Helmet (climbing)
  • Chalk bag
  • Clothing (synthetic)
  • Alpine boots (ie. La Sportiva Trangos)
  • Crampons
  • Ice axe 
  • Headlamp (extra batteries)
  • Water bottle
  • Food (5 lunches, 4 dinners, 4 breakfasts)
  • Sleeping bag (-3 c)
  • Personnel (ie. bandaids, sunscreen, sun glasses, toothbrush)
  • Multi-day backpack
  • 20 - 30L climbing pack

Note: VMG will supply any equipment you do not have (except rock shoes).

 

   

the kitchen area of the kain hut is fully equipped for guests

the kitchen area of the kain hut is fully equipped for guests

 
 
 
 

Video: ‘Cragging’ in the Bugaboos 

 
 

"Climbing in the Bugaboos is always a highlight of the summer and definitely one of my favourite places to climb. The rugged hike through wildflowers as you climb towards Applebee, the mystic and grandeur of the spires as they glow in the evening light, and the long shadows draped across the glaciers as the full moon rises and a lone headlamp weaves down the Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col. There is something eternally special about the place. Last week Simon Meis and I took advantage of a splitter forecast to session the east face on Snowpatch. We decided to forgo the usual journey across to the west side so that we could focus on hard free climbing close to 'home' (Applebee). The locals Chris Brazeau and Jon Walsh have been climbing on the east side for several years now, establishing some world class routes. While climbing with Jon the week prior he was adamant that I needed to sample the routes on the east face. So, with a large free-climbing rack, a backpack full of puffy jackets and even a pair of customized belay booties we set our sites on climbing as much as we could with as little walking as possible. In the five days that we were in Applebee we climbed, Sweet Sylvia, Sendero Norte, and Labyrinth"  -Joshua Lavigne

 
 

Gallery


Register For The Trip Of A Lifetime! Space Is Limited.

The Bugaboos are North Americas premier alpine climbing destination. Being in Canada, it remains a true wilderness experience with no roads and a very remote feeling. Your veteran IFMGA Guide will make you feel comfortable and safe amongst these vast granite spires.