5 Days Bugaboos!

This 5-day alpine rock camp is located in the spectacular Bugaboos, BC. No other location epitomizes the alpine better. Incredible granite spires rise from massive rumbling glaciers.

This is the perfect trip for those with a rock climbing background wanting to learn and experience alpine rock. We keep the itinerary flexible to meet your learning and climbing goals.

Due to the high demand, we recommend participants book early.

Pre-requisites

• Excellent physical fitness.

• Backcountry backpacking experience.

• Top rope 5.8 crack climbs outside with a pack.

Itinerary

Pre-trip Meeting via Zoom

Evening pre-trip meeting (7-9pm) will go over itinerary, meeting location, equipment, and logistics.

Day 1

Meet at Brisco General Store 10am. Drive 45km to the trailhead (2wd with clearance required). Hike to Applebee or the Kain Hut (TBD).

Stats:
4.6km (Kain Hut), 6km (Applebee)
720m elev, 900m elev
3-4hrs, 4-5hrs

Day 2 (flexible depending on weather)

Learn and review crevasse rescue and glacier travel. You’ll need this for the next 4 days!

Day 3-5 (flexible depending on weather)

Spend the next 3 days climbing the spires. Expect early mornings and spectacular alpine scenery.

Optional: Rest day hike and take photos.

Goals

• Review rock climbing basics: belaying, knots, equipment strengths and limitations.

• Rope ascending with a Tibloc and Nanotraxion.

• Review equipment for glacier travel on snow/ice (depending on conditions).

• Self-arrest and ice axe use.

• Learn to walk on snow slopes: kicking steps, holding the ice axe (cane, dagger, anchor).

• Learn and practice different snow and ice anchors: pickets, t-slots, bollards, ice screws, v-threads (depending on conditions).

• Snow/Ice techniques, flat foot, pied troisieme, and front pointing.

• Roping up for glacier travel: tying-in, stopper knots, spacing, rope team movement.

• Crevasse rescue practice

• Climbing Bugaboos Classics

• Discuss route finding in the field over alpine terrain with moraines, talus, and snow.

• Introduce techniques to move over alpine terrain with snow/ice and rock/talus.

Note: Goals are the discretion of your guide based on their professional judgement.

Equipment

(Detailed list will be emailed)

• Harness

• Helmet (climbing)

• Guide belay device

• Mountaineering boots

• Crampons (fitted to boots)

• General ice axe (70cm)

• 1 X 55cm Snow Picket with Cable

• 5 x Locking carabiners (pear shape)

• 1 x Double length sling (120cm)

• 1 x Cordalette (5m x 6mm cord)

• 1 x Sterling Hollowblock prusik

• 1 x Nanotraxion

• 1 x Tibloc

• Personal Items (toothbrush, insect repellent, sunglasses, sunscreen, pain killers, bandaids, athletic tape)

• Synthetic Clothing

• Sleeping Bag (0c)

• 20-30L Climbing Pack

• 70-80L Backpack

Note: VMG can supply some equipment if required.

Fee

$2599.00 +GST each

Based on 2 booking (5 days)

Dates

July 23-27

Ratio

1:2 (guide : participant)

Min: 1 guide : 2 participants
Max: 3 guides : 6 participants

Route options include:

• Eastpost Spire, NW Ridge 4th

• Brenta Spire, South Ridge 5.6

• Pigeon Spire, West Ridge 5.6

• Crescent Spire, Lions Way 5.7

• Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route 5.6

• Crescent Spire, Ears Between 5.7

• Snowpatch Spire, SE Corner 5.8 (Long)

• Snow Patch Spire, Surfs Up 5.9

• Crescent Spire, McTech Arete 5.10a

• Marmolada Spire, East Ridge 5.4

Waiver

You are required to read the VMG Waiver and agree to it’s terms and conditions prior to paying or signing. Your guide needs to see the emailed waiver verification before participating.

Questions?