Learn Mountaineering!
This is the perfect course for those aspiring to go mountaineering. You will learn the fundamental principles of glacier travel and crevasse rescue, so you can begin to safely pursue glaciated peaks and routes like, for example, Easton Glacier, Mt Baker.
Mountaineering requires many technical skills in addition to physical fitness, and respect for the natural environment. This course teaches you a broad spectrum spanning from low impact camping, whiteout navigation, trip planning, alpine geography, bear aware, alpine hazards, climbing strategy, self-rescue, and technical skills required.
Itinerary
Day 1
Meet your Guide at Cloudburst Cafe in Squamish at 8am. Plan to be back at the cars by 4pm.
Day 1 will be spent in the Squamish Smoke Bluffs learning technical skills on rock. Plan to be back at the cars by 4pm. We meet again the next morning for our alpine portion (Days 2-4).
Possible mountain areas used for training include:
Semaphore Lakes
Brandywine Mountain
Tricouni Mountain
Skypilot
Rainbow Mountain
Day 2 - 4
Meet at location TBD at 8am. Caravan to trailhead and hike into camp. The next 3 days will be spent immersed in the backcountry, camped near glaciers. The focus will be on learning and practicing mountaineering skills in the field.
Day 2
Meet at location TBD at 8am. Hike into camp. Snow school in the afternoon. Plan about an 8hr day with hiking, setting up camp, and snow climbing skills.
Day 3
Expect a long day in the mountains, anywhere from 10-12hrs. Leave camp by 7am and proceed to a mountain location for crevasse rescue and glacier travel skills.
Day 4
Enjoy a later morning with a leisurely breakfast to savour the last hours of alpine air. Pack-up and hike out to the cars. Group meeting and course debrief at location TBD.
Plan to return back to our cars around 1 pm.
Pre-requisites
Good physical fitness.
Backpacking in the backcountry.
Indoor climb, figure 8 knot, top rope belaying.
Waiver
You are required to read the VMG Waiver and agree to it’s terms and conditions prior to paying or signing. Your guide needs to see the emailed waiver verification before participating.
Goals
Day 1
Review rock climbing basics: harness, helmet, belaying, top rope crack climbing.
Knots: figure-8 bite, overhand bite, friction knot, girth hitch, auto block, prusik, clove hitch
Trad gear demonstration, 2-point alpine anchors, IDEALS anchor acronym
Trip planning and reading maps, white out navigation
Water and hygiene discussion (pathogens)
Rope ascending with a Tibloc and Nanotraxion, passing knots.
Extended rappel with fireman brake.
Day 2
Equipment and packing, attaching ice axe & snow picket.
Hiking in bear country, bear aware
Low impact camping, leave no trace, cooking, washing, hanging food, bathroom
Climbing techniques for snow, kicking steps, holding the ice axe (cane, dagger, anchor).
Snow/Ice techniques, flat foot, pied troisieme, and front pointing.
Self-arrest and ice axe use.
Identify hazards: rockfall, ice fall, seracs, crevasses, moats, snow bridges, cornices, avalanches, lightnining
Climbing strategy: alpine starts, overnight freeze, avoiding solar slopes, boot penetration, mitigating risk
Day 3 - 4
Glacier morphology, crevasses, moraines.
Learn and practice snow and ice anchors: pickets, t-slots, ice screws, v-threads (depending on conditions).
Roping up for glacier travel: spacing, friction knots, rope team movement (echelon).
Crevasse Rescue: arrest a fall, anchors, load transfer, assess fallen climber, padding the edge, hauling systems.
Using your skills in the mountains. Possibly climb a 3rd/4th class peak (guide to decide).
Discuss route finding in the field over alpine terrain with moraines, talus, and snow.
Introduce techniques to move over alpine terrain with snow/ice and rock/talus.
Additional topics include: alpine geography, low impact camping, wild animal encounters, flora and fauna, first aid emergencies, mountain weather, packing lightweight.
Note: These goals are a suggested list and VMG makes no guarantees participants will learn each skill listed above.
Questions?
Fee
$799 +GST (4 days)
Dates
June 13-16 (FULL)
June 28-July 1 (FULL)
July 18-21 (FULL)
August 2-5 (FULL)
August 29 - September 1
Email to be added to our Wait List
Note: Private instruction is available. Customize your program and learn at your pace with one-on-one instruction. Contact VMG!
Ratio
1:6 (min 4)
guide : participants
Note: private courses can be organized for 1-2 participants.
Equipment
(click above for a full list)
Harness,
Helmet (climbing)
Belay device
Rock shoes (optional)
Mountaineering boots
Crampons (fitted to boots)
General ice axe (70cm)
1 x 53cm Cable Snow Picket
1 x 21cm Ice Screw
1 x 13.5” Hollow Block
4 x locking carabiners (pear shape)
1 x Triple Action Locker w/ Captive Eye
2 x non-locking carabiners
1 x double length sling (120cm)
1 x cordalette (5m x 7mm cord)
1 x Nanotraxion or Spock
1 x Tibloc
Single Rope 9.0 - 9.4mm 60m (VMG supplies)
Backcountry camping kit
Note: please see the equipment lists section for complete details.
Gallery
Start alpine climbing this summer!
Combine technical skills with your love of the mountains to go farther this summer. Learn fundamental safety skills with a VMG guide this summer so you can begin thinking about those alpine objectives.