Mini Bugaboos!

The Nesakwatch Spires area contains perfect granite incisors with clean, splitter granite. Located in the Chilliwack Range of the North Cascades, the area has multiple options to serve beginner and expert climbers.

The Nesakwatch Traverse 5.7, over the North and South spires, is very popular. The traverse takes two days with the first day spent hiking to the bivi site, and the second day completing the climb. Adding a third day to the trip gives you more time to include the summit of Mt. Rexford - completing the full Ensakwatch Enchainment.

For climbers wanting to challenge the 5.9 and 5.10 grades, the area contains some 5-star routes. Dairyland 5.10d (6 pitches) is an excellent climb with an amazing hand-crack and finger crack. Slightly easier, on the North Spire the SW Ridge 5.9 (7 pitches) also has excellent crack climbing.

Contact VMG to discuss your goals and we will make it happen.

Itinerary:

Day 1

Meet at Tractorgrease Cafe on the Chilliwack Lake Road at 9am. After introductions with your guide and a quick equipment check, jump in the VMG Tacoma and drive 4x4 to the trailhead. The approach hike takes 3hrs to the bivi. 

Day 2

Breakfast at 7am before beginning to climb. Spend the day climbing alpine splitter cracks. Many options for climbing from 5.5 - 5.10 exist.

Option: Add Day 3

Climb another route or use the time for the full Ensakwatch Enchainment 5.7.

Route Options:

• North Spire - SW Ridge 5.9, 7p

• South Spire - North Ridge 5.7, 6p

• Dairyland - 5.10d, 6p

• Ensakwatch Enchainment - 5.7, 12p

• North Spire - North Ridge 5.5, 6p

Waiver

You are required to read the VMG Waiver and agree to it’s terms and conditions prior to paying or signing. Your guide needs to see the emailed waiver verification before participating.

Questions?

Fee:

Ratio 1:1 $1799

Ratio 1:2 $1199

Add 1-day: $899

Included: 4wd access to trailhead, group climbing gear, stove, pots, guide, permits
 

Dates:

Dates are flexible July - September. 

2 - Full days

Pre-requisite:

Good physical conditioning. Climbing 5.7 and lead belaying. Prior experience seconding climbs. Suggested pre-requisite routes are: Skywalker, Rambles, Banana Peel, or Smoke Bluff Connection.

Equipment:

• rock climbing shoes (very comfortable)

• harness

• helmet (climbing)

• chalk bag

• belay device (ATC type)

• 2 x locking carabiners

• 1 x double length sling (1 x 120cm)

• clothing (synthetic)

• approach shoes (sticky rubber)

• headlamp (extra batteries)

• water bottle (2 x 1L platypus-type)

• food (2 lunches, 1 breakfast, 1 dinner)

• sleeping bag & foamy

• bivi tent

• personnel items (ie. bandaids, advil/tylenol, sunscreen, sun glasses, toothbrush, cup, spoon, bug repellant)

• 50L climbing pack

Note: VMG will supply any equipment you do not have (except rock shoes).